Don’t Miss These Places in Korea #17. The Heart of Seoul Where Past and Present Coexist: MMCA Seoul, Bukchon, and Samcheong-dong
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| Exploring Seoul’s contemporary art scene at MMCA Seoul: A vibrant and welcoming space where international visitors can discover the fusion of modern creativity and deep-rooted history, seamlessly connected to the traditional charm of Bukchon Hanok Village. |
Don’t Miss These Places in Korea #17. The Heart of Seoul Where Past and Present Coexist: MMCA Seoul, Bukchon, and Samcheong-dong
Seoul's true charm lies in the seamless coexistence of ultra-modern skyscrapers and centuries-old alleyways. For the 17th edition of our series, I would like to introduce a walking course that starts at the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MMCA), Seoul, where the scars of modern history have been transformed into art, through the traditional Bukchon Hanok Village, and ending in the trendy streets of Samcheong-dong.
1. The Hub of Korean Contemporary Art: MMCA Seoul
Located directly across from Gyeongbokgung Palace, MMCA Seoul is not just a museum; it is a massive work of art and a witness to history.
From the Center of Power to a Temple of Art: The Story of the "Security Command" Site
The ground where the museum stands was originally the site of Jongchinbu (the Office of Royal Genealogy) during the Joseon Dynasty—a sacred place for royal affairs. However, in modern history, this location became a symbol of one of the darkest periods in Korean politics.
During the military dictatorship, this was the headquarters of the Defense Security Command (DSC), an institution that wielded near-absolute power. Notably, it was the secret meeting place where the leaders of the December 12 military coup in 1979 plotted their takeover. For decades, it was a "forbidden land" off-limits to the public and a place of fear. In 2013, this site was finally reclaimed by the citizens and reborn as a museum.
The red-brick building at the front of the museum is the original headquarters of the Security Command. Preserving this structure—once heavy with the weight of authoritarian power—and repurposing it into an open space for art serves as a powerful symbol of healing the wounds of Korea’s modern history and moving toward a brighter future.
Architectural Philosophy: The "Archipelago" Design
Architect Min Hyun-jun designed the museum to be low-profile so as not to overpower the nearby Gyeongbokgung Palace and Bukchon. The "Archipelago" design features several buildings scattered around open courtyards, emphasizing accessibility from all directions. This openness stands in stark contrast to the closed and secretive nature of the former Security Command.
Visitor Information (Essential for Foreign Visitors)
Operating Hours: 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM (Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, Sun) / 10:00 AM – 9:00 PM (Wed, Sat – Late night opening)
Closed: January 1st, Lunar New Year’s Day, and Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving).
Admission: 5,000 KRW for a comprehensive ticket (Free admission during late-night hours on Wed/Sat, and for those under 24 or over 65).
Location: 30 Samcheong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul (
Official Website
Services for International Visitors
English Docent Tours: Guided exhibition tours in English are available at specific times. Please check the official website for the schedule before your visit.
Mobile Guide: You can access free audio guides in English, Chinese, and Japanese via the MMCA mobile app.
Historical Context: If you visit with friends, tell them how this site evolved from a military intelligence agency into a public art space. It is a perfect example of Korea’s journey toward democracy.
2. A Village Where Time Stands Still: Bukchon Hanok Village
Just a short walk behind the museum, you will find Bukchon, where hundreds of traditional tiled roofs ripple like waves.
Why is it called "Bukchon"?
"Bukchon" literally means "North Village," named because it is located north of Cheonggyecheon Stream and Jongno. During the Joseon Dynasty, it was the "high-end residential district" for high-ranking royal officials and nobility.
The Mystery of the "Square (ㅁ)" Shaped Hanoks
You may notice that the Hanoks in Bukchon are tightly packed and shaped like the Korean letter "ㅁ" (a square). This is because most of these are "Urban Hanoks" built in the 1930s. To accommodate a growing population in a limited space, these houses were built with a central courtyard surrounded by rooms. This design protected the privacy of the residents while ensuring they still received plenty of natural sunlight.
The "8 Views of Bukchon" and Modern Hanoks
The city has designated "8 Scenic Views of Bukchon" to showcase the village's beauty. In particular, the alleyways of Gahoe-dong 31-beonji (Views 5 and 6) offer the best photo spots where traditional Hanoks meet the modern Seoul skyline.
Baek In-je House: A masterpiece of modern Hanok architecture that combines traditional Korean styles with Japanese tatami rooms and Western-style corridors.
Go Hui-dong House: The former residence of Korea’s first Western-style painter, Go Hui-dong, which he designed himself. You can feel the delicate touch of an artist throughout the space.
Western Classical Beauty: Choong-ang High School
At the edge of Bukchon lies Choong-ang High School, which offers a different kind of classical charm. Established in 1908, its stone main building was built in a Gothic style, making it feel more like a European university. While famous as a filming location for popular K-dramas, it is more importantly a cradle of modern Korean education. (Note: Access is usually limited to weekends and holidays to protect the students' learning environment.)
3. The Street of Sensibility: Samcheong-dong and Jeongdok Public Library
Jeongdok Public Library: From Elite Cradle to Citizen Sanctuary
A landmark of Samcheong-dong, Jeongdok Public Library occupies the former site of Kyunggi High School, which was once the most prestigious high school in Korea. Many of the elites who led Korea's modern development studied here. Today, it is a public library and a peaceful park for the city's residents.
Spring Cherry Blossom Spot
The gardens of Jeongdok Public Library are among the best cherry blossom spots in Seoul. In April, the library is transformed by a tunnel of white cherry blossoms and vibrant pink "King Cherry Blossoms" (double-petal blossoms). Sitting on a bench in the library garden, overlooking the nearby Hanok village, is the perfect way to escape the hustle and bustle of daily life.
4. Why International Visitors Love This Area
Hanbok Experience: Renting a Hanbok and walking through the Hanok village makes visitors feel like they have traveled back in time.
Traditional Tea Houses: Sipping Jujube tea or Omija (five-flavor) tea in a quiet traditional house offers a taste of Korea’s "aesthetics of slowness."
Samcheong-dong Cafe Street: The trendy cafes and boutiques tucked between traditional spaces represent the "Seoulite" trend—a perfect blend of heritage and modern lifestyle.
