Don’t Miss These Foods in Korea #26. Crispy, Smoky, and Authentic: The Allure of Seoul’s Dongdaemun Grilled Fish Alley
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| The smoky briquette-grilled fish and a hearty table of side dishes in Dongdaemun’s hidden alley offer an unforgettable culinary journey for global travelers. |
Don’t Miss These Foods in Korea #26. Crispy, Smoky, and Authentic: The Allure of Seoul’s Dongdaemun Grilled Fish Alley
1. Finding Comfort in a Sincere Meal Amidst a Busy Life
In the middle of a busy life in a fast-paced city like Seoul, there are moments when we crave something simple and honest rather than something grand or sophisticated. While refined fine dining is always a treat, there’s a unique comfort found in a humble meal served in a weathered alleyway that has stood the test of time.
Today, I want to introduce you to a hidden culinary treasure tucked away in the heart of Dongdaemun: the Grilled Fish Alley. Located right behind the glittering facades of modern shopping malls and the futuristic Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP), this alley has served as a sanctuary for local merchants and citizens for decades. I would like to share the true taste of Korea through a place I have trusted and visited for years: Honamjib.
2. 40 Years of Tradition: The Art of the Briquette Fire
As you step into the narrow alley near the Dongdaemun Comprehensive Market, the savory aroma and a gentle haze of smoke immediately greet you. Since the 1970s, the entrance of this alley has been lined with grills where owners flip fish over an open flame.
The secret to the flavor here lies in the Briquette Fire (Yeontan). The intense heat and subtle smoky scent, which cannot be replicated by modern gas stoves or ovens, eliminate any fishy odor while maximizing the natural flavors. Fish cooked rapidly over this high heat results in skin as crispy as a cracker, while the flesh inside remains incredibly moist and succulent—a texture Koreans call "Geot-ba-sok-chok" (Crispy outside, juicy inside).
3. [Special Guide] Finding the Right Fish: From Beginners to Gourmets
If it’s your first time in a Korean grilled fish alley, the menu might feel a bit overwhelming. Here is a step-by-step guide to choosing the perfect fish based on your palate and "de-boning" skills.
Level 1. The Safe Choice: Spanish Mackerel (Samchi) This is the best choice for those new to grilled fish or sensitive to fishy smells. It has firm, meaty flesh with very few small bones, making it easy to eat. It offers a satisfying texture similar to a thick fish steak.
Level 2. The Local Favorite: Chub Mackerel (Godeungeo) The most beloved fish in Korean households. Grilled over briquettes to remove excess oil, its rich and savory flavor pairs perfectly with a bowl of steamed rice. If you want to experience the true "Rice Thief" (a Korean term for a dish so delicious it makes your rice disappear), this is it.
Level 3. The Crispy Delight: Atka Mackerel (Imyeonsu) Famous for its incredibly crispy skin. If you want to experience the ultimate "Crispy-on-the-outside, Soft-on-the-inside" texture, I highly recommend this. The flesh is as soft and delicate as pudding.
Level 4. The Gourmet’s Challenge: Hairtail (Galchi) While the long, slender hairtail requires delicate skill to remove the fine bones, the reward is well worth the effort. It boasts a sophisticated, sweet, and melt-in-your-mouth flavor. A must-try for foodies seeking a delicate and refined texture.
4. Practical Dining Tips for Travelers
The Full Table (Baekban): When you order one fish, it comes as a full set with a bowl of rice, warm soup, and 5 to 6 different side dishes (Banchan). It’s a perfectly balanced meal that showcases the warmth and generosity of Korean food culture, known as “Jung.”
The Magic of Wasabi Soy Sauce: You will notice a small dish of soy sauce and wasabi on your table. Mix them together and dip the fish meat into it. The sharp kick of wasabi perfectly balances the richness of the fish oils.
The Joy of De-boning: Using your chopsticks to lift the entire spine of the fish is a fun way to engage with Korean dining culture. Don’t worry if you’re not an expert yet—it’s all part of the authentic travel experience!
5. KorVibe’s Top Recommendation: Honamjib
This is the first place that comes to my mind whenever I crave grilled fish near Dongdaemun.
Restaurant Name: Honamjib (호남집)
Address: 5, Jongro 40ga-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul (A 5-minute walk from Dongdaemun Station, Exit 9)
Operating Hours: 7:00 AM – 9:00 PM (Usually closed on Sundays; please check before visiting)
Price Range: Approximately 10,000 KRW to 15,000 KRW per person
6. From Dongdaemun to Naksan Park: A Perfect Seoul Stroll
After a satisfying meal, I recommend taking a walk to discover more of Dongdaemun’s charm, as I mentioned in my previous posts.
Just a short walk away is the
As the sun begins to set, head toward the
**Source & Notes : This guide is based on firsthand experiences living in Seoul, combined with up-to-date local insights.
**Information may vary depending on season and location. Always check official listings before visiting.
